Walk of art in the beautiful Treviso
A great cultural offer is added to the charm of water, frescoes, small streets and shops this autumn
Calmaggiore is the heart of Treviso between Piazza dei Signori and the Duomo, a street of shops and buildings with beautiful facades
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Treviso now adds to the beauty of the streets and glimpses a great offer of art. Treviso can be easily reached from all the towns of the Veneto in an average time of one hour and, on the motorway, along the A 27. In the center it is best to leave it alone the car, taking advantage of the car parks that are located near the double concentric ring (one in each direction of travel) that already surrounds the entire historic center. Parking is paid on Saturdays, parking free on Sundays
The sixteenth-century chiaroscuro of El Greco, the black and white of Escher, the colors of the Treviso painters of the early twentieth century, the white sculptures of Arturo Martini, the polychromy that decorates the facades of ancient houses shown in fine patchwork. And then the play of shadow and autumn sun in the arcades, the reverberation of the river Sile and the canals, the soft light of the churches that collect surprising works of art, such as the Annunciation by Titian in the chapel to the right of the main altar of the Cathedral , from which also El Greco would have drawn inspiration.
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Autumn in Treviso is a colorful puzzle of exhibitions, painted art, textile art
and rediscovered cultural liveliness in which to immerse oneself while walking.
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House of the Carraresi.
The small building in via Palestro houses the canvases of a genius of European painting, El Greco, after the years of oriental exhibitions. Between crucifixions, triumphs of angels, hieratic saints and the enchanting Magdalene, the great retrospective is the fulcrum of the Pescheria quadrilateral – Via Palestro -Piazza San Leonardo -Via Campana within which all kinds of shops are concentrated, an irresistible attraction for shopping and after El Greco: restaurants, taverns, bistros, cafes, bars, table and home furnishings, interior design, bijoux, jewelery, floral arrangements, fashion accessories, clothing, groceries, pastry shops, fish market, vegetable stalls and fruit in Piazza San Parisio (recommended purchase: the red radicchio di Treviso IGP, which arrived on the market in November).
Saint Catherine.
If you move a few meters from via Palestro or from Isola della Pescheria you will exit onto Piazza San Leonardo and via Santa Caterina to reach the former church-convent today the Civic Museum, where – after Rome and Bologna – the exhibition that pays homage Maurits Cornelis Escher. Unlikely constructions, mirror games, paradoxical motifs and geometries that run after each other in the 150 works by the Dutch artist (Leeuwarden, 1898 – Laren, 1972).
As part of the exhibition, conferences open to the public are proposed (free admission subject to availability). Escher’s works in some way dialogue with the splendid cycle of fourteenth-century frescoes Stories of Sant’Orsola by pinto da Tomaso da Modena, kept in the auditorium (accessed from the large cloister). Furthermore, until November 28, the museum hosts works by 50 Treviso artists dedicated to the 750 years since Dante’s birth.
Bailo Museum.
Leaving Santa Caterina you can go up via Sant’Agostino and then via Manzoni, squeezed between arcades, shops and artisan shops (a stop is worth the tavern from Arman and Ikiya, a small corner of Japan) to reach viale Burchiellati, on Saturday morning animated by weekly market, stocked with all kinds of goods. From here you go up along the walls crowned by large horse chestnut trees, under which you can walk up to the stretch of Viale d’Alviano. We descend towards Borgo Cavour to reach the former convent of the Scalzi, today a civic museum named after the Abbot Luigi Bailo, reopened after 12 years of interventions, deeply renovated.
The “pearl” is the gallery of the twentieth century with the art collection to be seen: the paintings of Gino Rossi, the painter who died in the Sant ‘Artemio asylum in 1937; the 134 works of his friend sculptor Arturo Martini, including the famous bronze of the “Pisana” and the stone group “Adam and Eve”; the pastels of the Opitergine symbolist Alberto Martini; portraiture and landscapes of the late nineteenth century; the masters active between the two wars Bepi Fabiano, Nino Springolo, Juti Ravenna, Giovanni Barbisan and Carlo Conte. Il Bailo is the heart of the ancient Borgo Cavour, home to the antiques and vintage market which takes place on the fourth Sunday of the month, against the backdrop of the monumental Porta SS. Forty.
San Nicolò.
Going through the garden city towards Porta Calvi, the itinerary leads to the imposing Dominican temple of San Nicolò erected in 1231, with the Episcopal Seminary adjoining it. The Chapter room is frescoed by Tommaso da Modena with the illustrious figures of the Dominican Order. To visit it call 0422.3247. In via San Nicolò two points to report for gourmet enthusiasts: the spices and ethnic food and the refined “Dame Rouge” wine cellar. Walking along a few streets you find yourself in Corso del Popolo and then in Calmaggiore, the main street of the city trade that cuts through the living room of the Treviso people, Piazza dei Signori and the Loggia dei Trecento, animated by the “ciacole” at the bar tables. A detour to Via Barberia deserves the osteria dalla Gigia with its tasty mozzarella in a carriage and Ca ‘dei Ricchi with its contemporary art exhibitions. From Calmaggiore the walk leads to via Canova and Ca ‘da Noal, where the textile masterpieces created by the quiltists of the Parchwork Idea association are exhibited until December, which recalls frescoes and views of the city.
The rivers and the trees.
To fully enjoy the colors of autumn, the historic center offers tree-lined paths painted this season in a variety of shades ranging from green to yellow, orange, red and brown. In addition to the chestnut trees of the walls, with a stop in the Latin Quarter (university area) you can enjoy the view of the trees that flank the Sile, the Garibaldi and Margherita rivieras, as well as Ponte Dante where the river accompanies the Cagnan (from the direction of the “Comedy “).
Going further, the path between water and trees leads to the towpath, the “remains” of the ancient Port of Fiera, access to the beautiful itinerary in the Sile natural park. ethnic food and the refined “Dame Rouge” wine cellar. Walking along a few streets you find yourself in Corso del Popolo and then in Calmaggiore, the main street of the city trade that cuts through the living room of the Treviso people, Piazza dei Signori and the Loggia dei Trecento, animated by the “ciacole” at the bar tables. A detour to Via Barberia deserves the osteria dalla Gigia with its tasty mozzarella in a carriage and Ca ‘dei Ricchi with its contemporary art exhibitions. From Calmaggiore the walk leads to via Canova and Ca ‘da Noal, where the textile masterpieces created by the quiltists of the Parchwork Idea association are exhibited until December, which recalls frescoes and views of the city.
The rivers and the trees.
To fully enjoy the colors of autumn, the historic center offers tree-lined paths painted this season in a variety of shades ranging from green to yellow, orange, red and brown. In addition to the chestnut trees of the walls, with a stop in the Latin Quarter (university area) you can enjoy the view of the trees that flank the Sile, the Garibaldi and Margherita rivieras, as well as Ponte Dante where the river accompanies the Cagnan (from the direction of the “Comedy “).
Going further, the path between water and trees leads to the towpath, the “remains” of the ancient Port of Fiera, access to the beautiful itinerary in the Sile natural park.
article by Cristiana Sparvoli for www.tribunatreviso.it of 19.11.2015